While the hype is always chasing the next big strain, newer doesn’t always mean better. It’s something that many younger cannabis growers who have only ever known a ‘developed’ cannabis industry, complete with its myriad of solutions – from plant care to growing technology to a conveyor belt of new strains – are starting to realize. The thing is, classic cannabis strains are called ‘classic’ for good reason. They had what it took to stand out in the crowd when they were first released and they have stood the test of time ever since!

Paradise Seeds has been around since the mid-nineties and is one of the most decorated seed companies in Europe with many cannabis cups and awards accumulated over the years. Paradise’s strain library contains over 40 strains and features sativa, indica, hybrid, autoflower and CBD Rich/High varieties. Popular strains include Nebula, Delahaze, Wappa, El Dorado Gold, L.A. Amnesia and Auto Kong ll (from Paradise’s hugely successful collaboration with Tommy Chong) and CBDRelax and CBDream from the company’s new CBD range.

The company was set up by cannabis breeder, Luc Krol, who is still very much involved with the breeding process at Paradise. He began growing in the 1980s and honed his skills in Amsterdam in the early 1990s after moving to the Dutch capital where he was involved in the vibrant ‘squat scene’ which thrived amongst the many vacant old buildings in the city.

At that time, Amsterdam was a hub for the international cannabis community, a happy stopover for Europeans and North Americans traveling to exotic parts of the world. In the city’s coffee shops travelers exchanged seeds picked up from popular landrace destinations, such as India, Thailand, Africa, and South America.

Ed Rosenthal And Luc Krol Go Way Back!

An avid seed collector, Luc soon began experimenting with growing and then breeding, taking advantage of whole floor spaces and rooftops of squatted buildings. Luc remembers these days fondly. “I bought Ed Rosenthal’s first book that he wrote together with Mel Franks, the Marijuana Growers Insider’s Guide. He inspired me to continue growing cannabis and I learned a lot from his book and later other books on growing.

A few years later, I met Ed at the High Times Cup – I think it was in 1997 or 1998 – and we have seen each other on many occasions since. We smoked a nice pure joint together of one of the varieties I was working on  (I think it was Nebula, which went on to win many awards) and we naturally had a good time. He was really encouraging of my work, which meant a lot to me so early on in my breeding career. This made it even more special when he was the one handing me over an award at a HighLife Cannabis Cup sometime later!

At Paradise, we think of Ed very highly for his contribution to the battle for cannabis legalization. He is inspirational on so many levels – as an advocate for the right to grow your own cannabis plants for self-sufficiency and of course in terms of his sacrifices for the cause. In the 2000s, we followed his court case very closely and did what we could, providing moral and some financial support. It’s very important that those who are now profiting from legalized cannabis, appreciate the contribution – and sacrifice – that advocates like Ed made to get to this point.”

Paradise Seeds Classic Strains: Sensi Star, Dutch Dragon, Wappa

While Ed was battling the Federal authorities in the USA in the 2000s, Amsterdam was still playing a central role in the world of cannabis as a safe space for weed and hash consumers to savor their passion in a tolerant surrounding. The early years of the new century also saw Paradise Seeds strains such as Belladonna, Dutch Dragon, Spoetnik #1, and Sensi Star become popular around the world.

Perhaps the most famous of Paradise’s classic strains is Sensi Star (90% Indica). It was once described as the ‘the strongest Indica you will encounter’ Sensi Star still upholds a reputation for extreme potency over 20 years since it was released. It has multiple cannabis cups to its name, including a supreme double in the form of both High Times and HighLife cannabis cups in the same year (1999). Over the years it has sired 50+ direct descendants, including Bio-Diesel, Stevie Wonder, and Death Star.

Its tremendous oil production makes it a favorite for hash producers (even in the heart of Morocco’s traditional hash producing regions). In the grow room it “smells like victory”, laughs Luc. Early flowering produces a distinctive metal smell that turns lemony at the end. “Her bouquet is strong and at the same time fresh – like mint, metal and oxygen combined. And she is so strong, even after all these years she packs a punch that can compete with the strongest strains out there. ”

Dutch Dragon is a fiery Sativa (75%) and the origins of this Paradise classic go all the way back to 1994 when the company first began. It’s a plant that loves warmer climates and is renowned for its incredible growth, which has produced plants of up to 3meters (almost 10ft) in height.

“This was one of the first strains we developed as a company,” explains Luc, “and still remains a Sativa favorite with connoisseurs because it is an unpretentious plant which grows long and resinous buds that have a lovely subtly citrus taste – more tangerines than lemons!  It’s a wonderful effect, a really thrilling, soaring ride, like flying on top of dragon wings!”

By the end of the decade, Paradise had added another classic strain to the list, in the form of a plant that continues to be one of the company’s most popular varieties – Wappa.  Luc describes this 60/40 Indica/Sativa with Sweet Skunk running through its core as a ‘near-perfect hybrid’.

“Strains like Sensi Star provide something unique and beautiful – like the frosting on top of a cake. Wappa is no such fancy plant, but this plant would be the essential ingredient that makes you the perfect cake!” Once harvested and cured, Wappa is notable for its strong but uplifting effect, bringing relaxation for body and mind alike, which also makes it a popular medical strain.

“I remember walking into a party with a bag of Wappa soon after it was released, “ says Luc. “It was such a lovely scent, so sweet, so fruity, and everybody just kind of stopped what they were doing and started to sniff the air. It was as if the fragrance lifted the atmosphere of the whole room. I remember thinking at the time, ‘oh yeah, that’s the Wappa effect!’.

Tim Paradise 2021

https://www.paradise-seeds.com/

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Mycorrhizal fungi, or mycorrhiza, are beneficial fungi that live in symbiosis with plants. In order for this symbiosis to take place, there must be direct contact between plant roots and the fungus. Applying early on you can see the difference in plant vigor and growth.

The benefits of mycorrhiza continue to prove themselves throughout plant evolution. Nearly 400 million years ago when plants moved from the ocean to land, they did not have a root system. Plants relied on fungi in order to absorb crucial nutrients and water for survival. These fungi were the plant’s root systems before plants actually developed root systems themselves.

This symbiotic relationship continued well after plants had established root systems. Some plants even require mycorrhizal fungi to grow optimally; this is known as an obligate mycotrophy. While cannabis can grow without mycorrhizal fungi, it is widely considered an obligate mycotroph, which means partnering with these fungi will certainly contribute to maximizing the plant’s genetic potential.

 I wanted to bring you more insights into this fascinating world of mycorrhizal fungi and sat down with the team at DYNOMYCO™ Inoculants in order to better understand this plant-fungal symbiosis and why fungi are so important for cannabis growers. Before we get into that let’s get a better understanding of what mycorrhizae actually are.

Understanding Mycorrhizae

The earliest evidence of this plant-fungal symbiosis dates back 407 million years and is known as mycorrhiza, which in Latin literally translates to fungus root (myco = fungus and rhiza = root ).

 There are five types of mycorrhizal fungi on the planet that are currently known to scientists. Each plays a key role in nature, associating with only specific plants at times and at others with a wide array of plants. Only one is beneficial to cannabis and that is the arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi (AMF) and within this category even fewer actually associate with cannabis.

AMF is the most common of all fungi and is associated with approximately 90% of all plants on earth. These fungi literally penetrate cell roots and create a network within the root and outside of it. The fungus creates a branching structure, an arbuscule, within the plant cell where carbohydrates from photosynthesis are exchanged for nutrients, water, and minerals brought by the fungi. These fungi do not produce any fruiting bodies and reproduce asexually below ground. 

This symbiotic relationship is fairly simple. The plant supplies the fungi with carbohydrates and in return, the fungus provides the plant with the necessary nutrients it needs. The more the plant needs nutrients the more carbohydrates it will send down to the fungi. With cannabis plants, this exchange is done inside the cell root in the arbuscules.

Cannabis Co-Evolved With Fungi

Before the legal changes that began in 1996, most cannabis cultivation was done indoors and away from the eyes of neighbors (unless you were in Humboldt county). Growers relied heavily on technological advances in lighting, ventilation, and various hydroponics systems.

Growing was done indoors and not out in the open; growers relied on bagged growing media for their substrate. The majority of packaged growing media arrives at our doorstep after being sterilized. “Kill off all the bad guys along with the good guys and feed the plants the essential NPK and a few other microelements and you’ll be good” was the approach that many growers used. There’s been a shift in thought over recent years and many growers are now leaning towards a living soil method by using the soil food web and taking advantage of the various microbes in the soil. As Jeff Lowenfels’ books suggest, we need to be “Teaming with Fungi” and “Teaming with Microbes” and the reason is simple. Nature knows what to do best. Mimic it and you’ll get promising returns.

When cannabis was illegal, no real scientific studies and trials were done on the efficacy of the growing techniques and methods in terms of what affects the plants and the phytochemicals, terpenes, cannabinoids, and flavonoids. With the advances of science and the fact that cannabis is now legal in many states, more and more growers have the opportunity to dive into real scientific research. One of these fields of research is the soil science aspect and the delicate interaction between plants and the soil microbes in which the plants grow.

The Benefits of Mycorrhizal Associations

There are many benefits of utilizing fungi in your cannabis garden. Firstly, a larger root surface allows the plant to absorb nutrients, minerals, and water from a greater area. In nature, the mycelial network can extend for miles and connect between multiple plant species! A larger root surface area will help in many things, amongst them is transplant shock and death rates which are much lower when mycorrhizae are present compared to when there is no symbiosis.

Secondly, there is increased nutrient uptake. With an increased surface area, plants can now absorb more nutrients and water than without the mycorrhizal association. This means reduced fertilizer inputs and higher yields. In addition, the AMF not only helps with the basic NPK but also with the absorption of microelements such as iron, zinc, and manganese.  

Other benefits include Increased phosphorous absorption. Mycorrhizal fungi secrete unique enzymes that free up phosphorous molecules and transport them to the plants in an available form. This is especially beneficial since roughly 85% of phosphorous in the soil is unavailable for plants. Once it’s flower time and fertilizing program changes, nitrogen levels go down and phosphorous levels go up in order to increase the size of the buds. With the help of mycorrhizae, the plants will already be enjoying increased phosphorus levels compared to non-inoculated plants.

Using fungi also creates a living rhizosphere. Life brings life, it’s as simple as that. When adding a biological element to a growing operation it tends to create more life. The addition of mycorrhizae will help other microbes thrive, for instance, bacteria. The hyphae literally create a superhighway for the bacteria to move around on. These bacteria also play pivotal roles, from nitrogen fixation all the way to plant protection. This living rhizosphere creates a new ecosystem where all the organisms benefit from the presence of one another and help each other compared to a lifeless inert media with only synthetic inputs added.

Fungi can also serve as a defense mechanism. With the help of this hyphal network surrounding the roots, plant pathogens have a much harder time attacking the plant. Research has shown that mycorrhizal fungi can help combat certain soil-borne pathogens, amongst them are Fusarium, Pythium, parasitic nematodes, and others.

Plants with a mycorrhizal association have a higher stress tolerance because the presence of the fungi lowers the salinity (EC) of the soil and therefore affects the pH and EC levels making the soil more suitable for plants to live in. In addition, the plants are more drought-tolerant because mycorrhizal plants are able to “reach” larger distances in search of water. The hyphae extend well beyond the rhizosphere and spread out into areas that plant roots can’t access. 

Finally, mycorrhiza also produces glomalin, which is a glue-like component secreted by the fungi that help bind soil particles together to prevent soil erosion as well as improve soil stability. Scientists are seeing a correlation between the presence of glomalin and the primary productivity of an ecosystem. It is the foundation of all ecosystems so to speak and the absence of fungi will create an imbalance in the entire ecological system. If you are attempting to grow in a no-till, regenerative approach, mycorrhizal fungi should be the first thing to add to your garden. 

Application of Mycorrhizal Fungi

 There are several ways to introduce mycorrhizal fungi to your grow operation. The earlier in the plant’s life the better, the simpler the application and the higher chance for successful inoculation. The younger the plant is, the greater the impact of mycorrhiza. As the plant matures, the tougher it is to guarantee inoculation. The older the roots are, the more they thicken and harden, making it difficult for the fungi to penetrate. Since the fungi must reach young, penetrable roots that are found at the bottom of the pot or at a greater distance from the stem, the application is more complex and the impact much lower than with young plants. Below are several of the application methods we recommend using.

1.     Mixing your inoculant into the growing media: This method of inoculation is simple and very convenient. Apply the product at the rate on the label, mix it uniformly into your media and you’re good to go. This method assures you that the fungi is spread out in

the soil and will be in close proximity once the roots grow out in search of food. If working in a large-scale facility, a soil mixer saves time and is ideal for mixing, especially if you’ve got thousands of plants.

2.     Planting hole application: If you transplant your plants, apply mycorrhizal inoculants at every transplant. Simply place your inoculant at the bottom of the planting hole at the recommended rates and you’re done. This will help reduce transplant shock.

3.     Rootball dusting/coating: This is done when your plant is ready to be transferred. Place some of your inoculants in a large enough container to fit the rootball of your plant. Wet your soil a bit, then roll the rootball in the inoculant so that it covers the sides and bottom uniformly. Another option is to sprinkle it onto the wet rootball if you want to conserve the product.

There are many ways to grow cannabis, and many inputs you can add to the mix. The addition of mycorrhizal fungi to your growing media should be a staple regardless of the fertilizer or input you use. This, in turn, will result in benefits that can be easily identified and clearly seen.

Mycorrhizal Fungi and Sustainable Agriculture

 With the addition of mycorrhizal fungi and the increased ability to absorb nutrients and water, many times a reduction in fertilizer usage and watering can be attained. The team at  DYNOMYCO™ researched trials on various plants including cannabis, where, through the use of fungi, fertilizer rates were reduced by 30%, and at the same time yields have increased of 25-30% compared to the standard 100% fertilization program. This is especially important since current agricultural and growing practices rely mostly on synthetic and mineral fertilizers. These minerals have to be mined from various rock formations around the world and are declining rapidly, most notably, phosphorous. Phosphorous is mined from phosphate rock, which scientists believe will reach peak levels in 2030, and afterward, the production will decline until we run out of it completely. The top five phosphorous producing countries produce approximately 90% of the world’s entire supply. Approximately 90% of the phosphorous given to plants remains locked in the soil, bound to either calcium (Ca) ions in calcareous high pH soil or to iron (Fe) and aluminum (Al) oxides at low pH. Therefore, the implementation of mycorrhizal fungi in soils is important not just for increasing yields and for healthier plants, but for better use and efficiency of our entire agricultural system.

 This video shows the dramatic difference early inoculation with Mycorrhizal Fungi makes.

5 Known Types of Mycorrhizal Fungi 

 Arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi (AMF): The most common of all fungi. AMF associate with approximately 90% of all plants on earth. These fungi literally penetrate cell roots and create a network within the root and outside of it. The fungus creates an arbuscule within the plant cell where carbohydrates from photosynthesis are exchanged for nutrients, water, and minerals brought by the fungi. These fungi do not produce any fruiting bodies and reproduce asexually below ground. 

Ectomycorrhizal Fungi (ECM): This group of mycorrhizal fungi associate with around 5% of plant species on the planet, mainly with hardwood trees such as Birch, Oak, Pine, Douglas Fir, and others. ECM surround the roots of plants but do not penetrate them like AMF and the exchange between fungi and host is different. ECM reproduce sexually via fruiting bodies, better known as mushrooms. Examples of these are the culinary delicacy truffles and porcini and the infamous Amanita mushrooms. It’s important to note that ECM does not associate with cannabis plants as they are not hardwoods.

Orchid mycorrhizae: The name gives it away. These fungi associate only with the Orchidaceae family and play a very important role at the germination stage when the young plant requires carbon provided to it by the fungus.

Ericoid mycorrhizae: These fungi are found in acidic and nutrient-poor soils such as heathlands, bogs, and forests. This group of fungi has the ability to breakdown organic forms of nitrogen which can be limited where large quantities of ericaceous plants are found. These fungi are found on almost all continents except for Antarctica.

Monotropoid mycorrhizae: These fungi associate with plants that rely solely on the mycorrhizal association as their carbon source. This type of fungus, as well as these types of plants, are found in coniferous/mixed coniferous forests with very little low light levels.

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Cannabis plants are dependent on their environment for materials and energy. These key inputs, known as the limiting factors, drive photosynthesis and therefore plant growth. As outlined in the Marijuana Grower’s Handbook, the limiting factors are light, carbon dioxide, nutrients, water, and temperature. Through my work to update the book, which is now the Cannabis Grower’s Handbook, I’ve highlighted another critical limiting factor, oxygen.

Oxygen is required by all of the plant’s living tissues for aerobic respiration. This means everything from the bottom of the roots to the tops of the shoots. If oxygen becomes limited the plant’s respiration rate will dip and its ability to perform its normal activities will decrease. Although, in theory, oxygen could be a limiting factor in the stems, leaves, and flowers, that’s nearly impossible. The place where oxygen stress is a reality is within the plant’s root zone and occurs when oxygen uptake by the plant’s roots outpaces oxygen’s replacement there.

Here’s an excerpt from the new book that includes information to ensure your cannabis plants receive the correct amount of oxygen:

 Oxygen Sources for Cannabis Plants

 Plants have three sources of oxygen:

 ●      Oxygen released during photosynthesis but held in the plant structure

●      Oxygen in the atmosphere (Air is about 21% oxygen)

●      Oxygen dissolved in water, which the roots absorb  

Cannabis plants are terrestrial, which means that their roots explore the soil or whatever growing medium they are in. Underground roots do not see the light of day, and therefore do not have access to atmospheric oxygen.

Atmosphere

There is a lot of oxygen available in the atmosphere, which is about 21% oxygen. The roots’ source of oxygen is through diffusion to the root zone.

Oxygen diffuses 10,000 times slower through water than it does through air. Roots growing in compacted soil or degraded growing medium with little air porosity can quickly lose access to oxygen. The growing medium or soil that cannabis is growing in must have enough air porosity that oxygen can diffuse through the small air spaces in between the soil particles. If the plant’s roots are actively respiring, oxygen stress can occur within 20 to 30 minutes.

The primary way cannabis roots get oxygen is through diffusing through the air pores in the soil or growing medium or via water that is saturated with dissolved oxygen. When soil is watered from the top the draining water creates a vacuum in its wake. This pulls fresh air into the ground.

Dissolved in Water

Cannabis roots can also absorb oxygen that is dissolved in water or nutrient solution. As long as the water is saturated with oxygen, every time plants are irrigated or fertigated the roots get a fresh delivery. As temperatures rise, the rate of respiration in the roots increases.

Although oxygen in the atmosphere is at a concentration of about 21%, oxygen dissolves in water and maxes out at 8.3 ppm at 77°F (25°C). At 68°F (20°C), the dissolved oxygen concentration in water maxes out at 9.1 ppm.

As water temperatures decrease, the saturation level increases. The question arises: does it make sense to decrease the root zone temperature to increase oxygen availability to the roots? Unfortunately, a decrease in root zone temperature also drastically decreases the rate of root respiration, lowering the roots’ metabolism and productivity. Even though more oxygen may be available in a cooler root zone, slower root respiration rates slow the delivery of water and nutrients to the canopy. The ideal root zone and nutrient solution temperature should range between 68°F (20°C) and 72°F (22°C) in water culture and up to 75°F (24°C) in planting mix, where the water is interspersed with air.

Dissolved oxygen, sometimes abbreviated as DO, is the primary source of oxygen for cannabis roots in aeroponic production. Growing cannabis without a physical growing medium requires frequent fertigations with oxygen saturated nutrient solution.

Normal vs. Low Oxygen Levels

Normoxic conditions mean that the level of oxygen is not a limiting factor for respiration in the root tissue. The roots are actively growing and absorbing nutrients and water sufficiently. Root respiration is heavily dependent on temperature and oxygen concentration. If the oxygen concentration declines with a constant root temperature, the rate of respiration will also slow down. As respiration rates drop, the amount of energy available to do work also decreases. This is the energy the roots need to grow, absorb nutrients, and maintain cellular integrity.

 The root environment goes from normoxic to hypoxic when the concentration of oxygen in the root zone drops to a level so low that not enough energy is available from respiration for the roots to properly function. Hypoxic root conditions lead to several problems for the plant. The rate of nutrient absorption declines and root growth decreases and dies. Plant roots signal to the leaves to close the stomata. Water absorption through the roots declines and then stops. This decreases the plant’s ability to photosynthesize since the stomata are closed and no longer allow CO2 to enter the leaves. The combined effects of a hypoxic root zone ranges from a smaller yield to plant failure.

 As oxygen concentrations continue to decrease in a hypoxic root environment, the root zone eventually becomes anoxic, that is, it has virtually no oxygen. Root respiration stops completely and usually results in root die-off. Not only does this decrease the surface area for nutrient and water absorption, but the dying roots provide entry points for microbial pathogens such as Phytophthora cinnamomi (Jacobs et al., 1997).

 An oxygen-enriched environment makes a big difference in plant vigor, ranging from 50 to 60% more growth for cuttings and 30% more for rooted plants. Root growth and development is best with oxygen saturated media, which is why it is so important to have high oxygen levels when taking cuttings for vegetative propagation. Root initiation from shoot tissue requires adequate oxygen levels.

Increasing Oxygen in the Root Zone

Passive approaches capitalize on how cannabis roots get their oxygen. Oxygen naturally diffuses through the air spaces of a porous growing medium/soil. Using a growing medium with particles large enough to leave space for air once the soil drains is essential for allowing the passive movement of oxygen-containing air through the root zone.

Proper management of the irrigation schedule is crucial in optimizing oxygen availability for the roots. Growing plants in fine grain or compacted soil or a growing medium that has low porosity leave little breathing room for the roots.

The reason why cannabis suffers from waterlogged soil is that it is more likely to be hypoxic since the pores in the soil are filled with water.

Irrigating with low oxygen water without allowing the soil to dry out between watering is the worst scenario since oxygen never gets the chance to diffuse through the pores of the growing medium. The water that is being introduced into the root zone is not bringing oxygen with it. Allowing for the growing medium to dry out a bit between irrigations promotes oxygen availability in fine-textured soils.

Irrigating with oxygen-saturated water is another way to passively introduce oxygen to the roots. Waterlogged soil is not harmful to the plants as long as the root zone has plenty of oxygen. Plants can be irrigated continuously as long as the nutrient solution is saturated with oxygen.

This is the theory behind growing in aeroponic production. The roots are constantly being showered with a nutrient solution that is always exposed to air. The high exposure to oxygen allows for constantly saturated water raining down on the roots.

Increasing oxygen concentrations in water is not difficult to do. There is so much oxygen available in the atmosphere that actively bubbling air through water in a storage tank with an aquarium pump attached to an air stone is sufficient.

A pump-over or cascade can also be used to oxygenate water in a storage tank. A pump creates a spray or jet that splashes back into the water and mixes with the air. This increases the DO to saturation. The larger the surface area of air-to-water interaction that occurs, the quicker the water becomes saturated with oxygen.

Increasing the dissolved oxygen (DO) concentration in fertigation solutions can be done through several methods.

The simplest is a venturi system. Air is drawn into a flowing liquid so when a hole is drilled into the pipe and tubing is attached the water is automatically aerated as it flows. The Mazzei Airjection Irrigation system makes it easy to introduce oxygen-laden air into the water-nutrient solution. Just hook it up to the irrigation line and it draws air into flowing water automatically. It requires no power and has no moving parts.

Bubbling air through the stock solutions and water storage tanks is one of the best ways to introduce oxygen into the system, as it is inexpensive and easy to maintain. Some air pumps can increase the temperature of the nutrient solution, which should be monitored.

Other than air, there are other products that are available that increase dissolved oxygen concentrations that also sanitize the water. Ozone (O3) and hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) are strong oxidizing agents that neutralize microorganisms in the water. Both compounds naturally break down to produce oxygen:

Ozone breakdown 2O3 → 3O2

 Hydrogen Peroxide breakdown 2H2O2 → 2H2O + O2

Ozone has a half-life of about 20 minutes at room temperature. It is an extremely powerful oxidizer and has strong antimicrobial properties. Ozone can be produced on-site with an ozone generator. Ozone generators can be used to bubble ozone through water. Water should be ozonated at night in storage tanks and allowed sufficient time to break down before being applied to the plants. High-concentration ozone in the nutrient solution can oxidize nutrients and potentially damage roots.

Hydrogen peroxide also has oxidative properties although nowhere near as strong as ozone. Hydrogen peroxide should be diluted down to a maximum of 1% of the water volume. (It comes in various percentages from 3% to about. 30% solution). It also breaks down quickly, so it does not stay oxidative for too long. Exposure to light breaks it down more quickly, so it should be stored in an opaque container in a dark location. Much like ozone, hydrogen peroxide has strong antimicrobial properties, which means that it, too, can damage cannabis root tissue if exposed at too high of a concentration. Luckily for both ozone and hydrogen peroxide, neither compound leaves a residue and both break down into molecular oxygen that is available to the roots.

Ozone and hydrogen peroxide neutralize pathogenic bacteria and fungi; however, they also can eliminate beneficial microbes in the root zone. A robust and diverse microbial community in the root zone is beneficial to the health of the plant. When using ozone and hydrogen peroxide to oxygenate the water, it is best to wait before applying so that the ozone and hydrogen peroxide molecules have broken down.

 How to Tell When the Root Zone Needs More Oxygen

In the absence of oxygen, roots die off. If hypoxia is suspected, use a soil moisture meter. If the plant can be popped out of its container, the roots can be inspected. Healthy roots are typically white in color and fuzzy with root hairs near their growing tips. In some water culture systems, no root hairs are present. Slimy, brown roots are unhealthy roots, however, some staining from soil, planting media, or nutrients and additives can be normal.

 Anaerobic bacteria flourish when a root zone is low in oxygen. These microbes produce ammonia-smelling compounds. Musty or acrid smells are usually indicative of persistent low-oxygen in the root zone.

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Plants like humans have defined needs from their environment. There are six essential factors that effect cannabis growth. CO2 is one of these. The release of CO2 is always integrated into indoor cultivation sites. Now there is a company that is bringing this necessary component to outdoor cultivators. I’ve seen the test sites and the results are noteworthy. AG Gas is the leading company with this technology. They share their research with us. –Ed

Using CO2 in hoop houses, ventilated greenhouses and open fields will improve the quality and increase the quantity of your harvest. This is not just theory- farmers today are enjoying the benefits of CO2 enrichment, and you can too.

AG Gas provides a convenient system for delivering CO2 to your crops. Here’s the story in their words:

CO2 ENRICHMENT – A critical tool for maximizing yields … and it’s not just for warehouses

Photosynthesis is the process in which plants use the sun’s energy to crack carbon out of CO2 molecules to create sugars. These sugars are the building blocks of all plant matter – including roots, stems, leaves, buds, cannabinoids, and terpenes. Remarkably, the plants you grow on your farm literally come out of the air when CO2 is taken up through stomata openings of the plants’ leaves.

Growers spend a lot of time and effort preparing the soil (the source of primary and trace nutrients), irrigating, and ensuring there is sufficient light. You can see these things with your own two eyes and are practices farmers have understood since the beginning of agriculture. If you could “see” CO2 you might think differently about it.

Enriching the air around your plants with CO2 supercharges the photosynthetic process, creating healthier plants and, ultimately, bigger yields. Gaining sufficient carbon from CO2 is important even at the earliest stages of plant development when the plant prioritizes root development. Like compound interest, these early “investments” in plant structure support the creation of additional biomass as the plant matures. The best results from CO2 enrichment are realized when it’s applied to both the vegetative and flowering stages.

Yield improvements from CO2 enrichment derive from more, larger, and denser buds and can exceed 30-40% … commonly generating 25-30 pounds of additional finished product per 1,000 square feet per harvest. As Ed Rosenthal likes to say, plants evolved when there were greater concentrations of CO2 in the atmosphere and they “know” how to use more of it.

There are other benefits to CO2 enrichment as well. When greater levels of CO2 are available to a plant it changes the transpiration process. Stomata openings close somewhat because the plant is getting all the CO2 it needs for optimum photosynthesis. This results in less water vapor being lost through the leaves, which tamps down foliar canopy humidity – helping to reduce mold and mildew – and improves the plant’s water-use efficiency. It also makes the plants more heat-tolerant.

Researchers have completed scores of scientific studies on CO2 enrichment – many with the intent of understanding the impact on agriculture of rising levels of atmospheric CO2 – and the results have been profound. Managed use of CO2 in farming has the potential to turn the issue of waste industrial CO2 into an agricultural benefit.

Cannabis growers, by and large, know that CO2 enrichment works. Many have grown indoors using propane burners to generate both heat and CO2. In an enclosed environment you can “flood the space” to generate CO2 concentrations two or three times the ambient levels. Many growers also know there are risks associated with this practice – both to plants and to humans. An impure “burn” can generate bi-products such as ethylene that are toxic to plants. And OSHA regulates human exposure to CO2, which is an asphyxiant. Any CO2 enrichment process needs to address these issues with regulatory-compliant safety protocols and 24/7 monitoring.

What are your options for CO2 enrichment if you don’t grow indoors? The key is to use a system that is targeted, dynamic and prescriptive. The only CO2 that matters is the CO2 that’s in the foliar canopy. And if the conditions aren’t right – not enough light, imperfect temperature, too much ventilation – the CO2 is simply wasted. An effective system needs to adjust constantly to the ambient environment using real-time sensor data.

With the right system, CO2 enrichment can generate compelling returns … even in open-air grows, light-dep hoop houses and naturally-ventilated greenhouses.

The same data points used to manage CO2 enrichment can be useful in managing your other growing practices as well … data points that are generally available to indoor growers. While you may not be able to control factors like temperature and humidity in a naturally-ventilated environment, you can use this information to better understand and react to your plants’ needs.

When considering a CO2 enrichment solution it’s important to consider ease-of-use. Targeting the foliar canopy means having to adjust emitter lines as plants grow, and being able to move the lines out of the way when laying mesh trellis, tending to plants or at harvest time. CO2 enrichment should mesh – not interfere – with your general farming practices.

CO2 enrichment performs best at grow sites that have already dialed-in their core practices for soil, nutrients, irrigation and pest management. These growers are best able to make small adjustments to their nutrient and irrigation regimes in order to gain maximum yield increases and can also assess the results of using CO2 enrichment against a baseline of previous harvests.

 Warehouse growers readily attest to the benefits of CO2 enrichment, where the practice is typically a standard operating procedure. Open-air, hoop house and ventilated greenhouse growers generally assume these benefits don’t apply to them. The following video features one (originally skeptical) grower’s experience with CO2 enrichment both in light dep hoop houses and in open-air grows.

Farming is often about addressing the limiting factors of production. All growers – regardless of how they grow – have options to take CO2 off this list.

Feel free to reach out to AG GAS if you have questions:

E-mail: info@aggas.com

Phone: 888.579.3223

Website: www.aggas.com

Instagram: aggas_carbogation

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When it comes to germinating cannabis seeds there are many different ways to get those tiny jewel boxes of prized genetics to pop. In response to my scientific investigations exploring different methodologies for germinating seeds, Marijuana Seed Breeders conducted a survey of experts and home growers to ask about their preferred method of germination. I wanted to share the results of this survey as well as some of my own tips for spouting your seeds. Let’s give our plants the best chances possible to grow into their full potential by starting them off right.

-ED

The Most Common Way to Germinate Cannabis Seeds

Every spouted seed counts. The more plants the better, right? In the survey we conducted Marijuana Seed Breeders set out to understand how marijuana growers around the world germinate their cannabis seeds.

We asked:

What is your preferred seed germination method?

1. Glass of water

2. Wet Towel

3. Directly in soil

4. Stone wool blocks

5. Using a starter kit

6. Other, please explain:

Here are the stats on the other answers.

 #1. Wet Towel (37.3%).

#2. Other. 21.1% of the growers follow another germination routine.

#3. Directly in Soil. A surprisingly high percentage (19%) put their precious seeds directly in soil!

#4. Starter kits. 10% use starter kits

#5. Glass of water is the best way for 8.5% of the growers.

#6. Stonewool (3.5%). 

Next, we asked a great grouping of experts to see how they germinate their seeds. Our experts were

#1. Dr. Dina, The Queen of Cannabis, Co-Owner of AHHS WeHo

#2. James Loud, Founder of Loud Genetics Loud Seeds

#3. Jennifer Martin, Founder Cultivation Sector Consulting LLC

#4. Jesce Horton, Founder and CEO LOWD

#5. Melanie Carruthers, Director of Propagation 7ACRES

#6. Ryan Douglas, Cannabis Growth Consultant Ryan Douglas Cultivation

#7. Rudy Ellenbogen, Founder and CEO Whole Grow

Let’s dive right in!

Dr. Dina, The Queen of Cannabis, Co-Owner of AHHS WeHo

When someone gets a nickname from Snoop Dogg and when that person is referred to as the Queen of Cannabis, the Mona Lisa of Mary Jane as well as the Queen of Weed and the main character of the eight season series Weeds is based on them, then you know that you are dealing with a true expert. I prefer to germinate My seeds in root gel (clonex) and stick them in cubes. Paper towels work well too, but I think the root gel gives the seeds the extra push to become a strong plant.  Happy gardening!

– Dr. Dina, The Queen of Cannabis

James Loud, Founder of Loud Genetics

Well it’s a loaded question because it depends on scale. I sterilize in an h2o2 Soak then germinate in a jiffy #7 typically. However, large scale I prefer a needle/vacuum seeder to place the seeds evenly in the substrate. Well and with autoflower I believe direct sow in optimal conditions can yield better results.  

– James Loud, Loud Seeds

Jennifer Martin, Owner Cultivation Sector Consulting LLC

I use coco plugs. I gave up the wet paper towel method years ago because managing the moisture was too cumbersome.

I buy coco plugs that come in the 50-cell sheet, make a light nutrient mix, put all of the plugs in a pitcher of the nutrient mix, squeeze them to fully saturate them with the mix, put them back in the cell sheet, push a seed into each hole, and put a dome on the tray under the light.

Then I just keep the plugs moist. The seeds start to pop in about 3 days. Some take up to a week. I leave them in there until they overgrow the tray, then transplant into 3″ pots.  

– Jennifer Martin, Cultivation Sector Consulting LLC

Jesce Horton, Founder and CEO, LOWD

I’m a water glass guy. I like to know before planting which seeds are more vigorous and then assess based on that benchmark throughout the growth process.

I carefully pull the seeds with a spoon and drop them into a coco mixture a day or two after they pop.  

– Jesce Horton, LOWD

Melanie Carruthers, Director of Propagation, 7ACRES

Our processes at 7ACRES for seed germination use a combination of a glass of water and wet towel.  

– Melanie Carruthers,  7ACRES

Ryan Douglas, Cannabis Growth Consultant Ryan Douglas Cultivation

 I prefer to start seeds in a seedling tray  

– Ryan Douglas, Ryan Douglas Cultivation

Rudy Ellenbogen, Founder and CEO Whole Grow

  Wet towel.  

– Rudy Ellenbogen, Whole Grow

Ed Rosenthal, author, educator, social activist, and legalization pioneer.

Thanks to all for sharing your advice. I use starter trays and plugs from iHort – EXcel T-50 and 32 Star Excel trays to start seeds. They come pre-moistened, with a little hole to drop a seed. I use the 50 per tray when I will be transplanting within two weeks and the 32 per tray for growing up to 3 weeks.

I like them because:

• They are sterile

• They cut prep time to zero-Just drop the seed

• They hold water but have plenty of air space, so they can’t be overwatered.

• Roots grow well in the medium

• The entire cube with roots can be planted without disturbing the roots.

When I’m using fresh seed, I just drop them into the hole in the cube. With stale seeds, first I soak them in a 0.5% hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) solution for 3-4 hours. The recipe is 1 part drugstore 3% H2O2 to 5 parts water. This sterilizes their surfaces. Then they soak in mycos and liquid kelp solution for about 6 hours. Then they are placed in the cubes. Upon first signs of germination, I water them with mycos and kelp to promote root growth. The next day they are watered with a weak combo of veg and flowering formula about 400 PPM.

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Not all cannabis seeds are good to grow.

Learn how to identify quality marijuana seeds in order to start your cannabis grow in the best way possible.

 By Royal Queen Seeds

“When it comes to seeds, Royal Queen Seeds knows what they are talking about. I have a longstanding relationship with this company which has been supplying quality seeds since 2007. We’re similar in that we are constantly evolving and always striving to improve the cannabis plant and our relationship with it. For Royal Queen, this translates to constantly aiming for more evolved and stable genetics. They also possess a passion and enthusiasm for growing weed and want to share what they’ve learned with the world, regardless if it’s their genetics you are working with. Here they’ve provided some great tips for starting off your grow with the best seeds possible.”

-ED

With the exception of clones, all cannabis plants start life as a humble seed. Under the right conditions—and with a little bit of love and care—these tiny packets of genetic material emerge into mature, aromatic, and sticky specimens. Just like any investment, selecting high-quality weed seeds results in superior outcomes. Marijuana seeds of a higher caliber boast better germination rates, better genetics, and improved yields.

As one of Europe’s biggest seed banks, Royal Queen Seeds understands the viability of seeds and offers some tips on how to tell if your marijuana seeds are good. There are several boxes that growers can tick to boost the odds of starting with premium seeds, from sourcing them from reputable supplies to visual assessment and easy DIY tests.

Whether you received seeds from a friend, found some in the bottom of a bag, or purchased a pack from a seed bank, these tips will show you how to pick the best from the bunch and get your next grow off to the best possible start.

What Do Good Cannabis Seeds Look Like?

You can tell a lot about the quality of a cannabis seed just by looking at it. Weed seeds vary a lot in appearance, ranging from green to brown in color. They also display diversity in their shape and size, with some specimens being small and spherical, and others large and pointed.

Cannabis seeds from different strains display different characteristics when they mature into plants. As poly-hybrids with plenty of genetic variation, most modern cannabis plants exhibit unique traits depending on their genetic lineage. Breeders select desirable tastes, smells, and effects from parent strains, which are then passed down to the progeny. The shape and size of seeds also change slightly as new hybrid varieties are born.

Marijuana seeds from the same plant—even from the same flower—can feature different visual characteristics as well. Just as two human siblings possess different hair and eye colors, heights, and personalities, each cannabis seed possesses its own genetic variation, from the subtle to the obvious. The sheer amount of variation among cannabis seeds means that even good-quality seeds differ in appearance. However, there are a few telltale signs buyers can look for to set the good weed seeds apart from the bad.

Look for a Healthy Brown Color

Healthy and viable cannabis seeds feature a brown color that varies from a light shade to a much darker one. Some seeds are more uniform in color, whereas others feature multiple shades and tiger stripe or turtle shell patterns.

 Any seed that falls within this color range shows promise. Changes of color within this spectrum occur primarily due to genetic factors, but environmental variables also play a role. Some seeds take on a darker tone after being packaged for several months. Humidity, lighting, and oxidation also lead to a slight shift in appearance.

Marijuana seeds start to become questionable when they present a green coloration. Green hues are a sign that the grower harvested their seeds too early. This vegetative look means the seeds didn’t get the time they require to develop properly, placing them at a higher risk of not germinating.

Optimal Size and Shape

Healthy cannabis seeds come in all shapes and sizes. Some cultivars produce small and compact seeds with very little room between the outer shell and the immature cotyledon leaves nestled within. Despite their small size, these seeds are completely viable when they feature other indicators of good health, such as color and age.

Other healthy seeds take on a large and bloated appearance. Sometimes this results from their genetic makeup, in other circumstances high levels of calcium and magnesium can bolster seed circumference.

Despite differences in size, healthy cannabis seeds share a similar shape. They display a tear-drop body—round at one end and tapered at the other. Seeds that stray from this consistent shape may possess a genetic flaw. Seeds that are exceptionally flat or misshapen may undergo issues with germination and produce subpar plants.

Opt for a Waxy Sheen

After learning the indicators of size and shape, you might still be thinking: What do good weed seeds look like? Well, the quality of their shell also helps to signal how good future plants may perform. Healthy seeds boast a slight shimmer on their shells, as though growers have polished them with some wax. Unhealthy seeds look dull and matte in comparison. If you have the choice, opt for waxy seeds with a sheen to improve your results.

Think Age

In nature, cannabis plants grow, produce seeds, and then return to the earth each year. The seeds disperse through animal activity. The lucky ones emerge from the soil the following spring, while the others perish. Ideally, growers choose seeds less than a year old when it comes to sowing. These fresh specimens germinate fast and are less likely to run into trouble over a shorter duration of storage.

We’ve all heard tales of archaeologists sprouting 1,000-year-old seeds found in Egyptian tombs. While cannabis seeds don’t possess such extreme longevity, growers often experience success cultivating seeds from two to three seasons past. However, young cannabis seeds offer the best option when it comes to viability, germination rate, and healthy plants. But, how can you tell the age of a weed seed?

 Simply use the sensation of touch. Place the seed between your thumb and index finger and give it a squeeze. Young and healthy seeds will feel firm, and won’t give in to the pressure. Older seeds may feel slightly squidgy, and old and dry seeds may even crumble or crack—they lack the moisture and nutrient content of younger specimens.

Where Did Your Weed Seeds Originate From?

When asking yourself the question of how to tell if a weed seed is good, you need to consider where it came from. There remains a huge discrepancy between the quality of cannabis seeds from a reputable seed bank versus those found in the bottom of a mediocre bag of weed.

Professional seed banks spend a lot of time, money, and effort breeding high-quality cannabis genetics. These specimens churn out seeds with a high germination rate, and the subsequent plants deliver outstanding cannabinoid and terpene profiles alongside excellent yields.

 Seeds found in buds obtained from your local dealer are likely of much lower quality. In general, finding seeds in flowers reflects poor growing practices. On top of this, you likely have no idea how old these buds really are. Stick to seed banks known for top-shelf genetics. Check out their reviews, and see how much data they disclose regarding each strain to confirm you’re in good hands.

Do Your Cannabis Seeds Float or Sink?

Once you’ve analyzed the seeds at your disposal, you can run one final check to determine their quality. The float test enables growers to set great-quality seeds aside from questionable ones. Simply fill up a glass with water and drop your seeds into the fluid. Return to the experiment 1–2 hours later. The seeds that sink are healthy and ready to germinate. Now that they’re wet, place them straight into the soil and begin the grow, as storing wet seeds can result in rot. Floating seeds are often deemed unhealthy, and some growers refuse to use them.

The Ultimate Test: Germinate All of Your Cannabis Seeds

Large-scale growing operations don’t have time to analyze every seed for quality. Likewise, home growers with a small number of seeds don’t risk much by simply germinating all of their seeds to see how things go. Ultimately, placing your seeds into the soil and watching them emerge into seedlings serves as the best way to identify seed quality. Place them into a segmented seed tray and watch them rise. If any seeds refuse to germinate or produce gangly or deformed seedlings, you’ll know which specimens deserve your time and dedication.

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Collecting kief is a great way to get the most out of your harvest. Whenever I have a bag of trim I make sure to not let the trichomes go to waste by using a simple dry sift method utilizing a mesh screen and a kief collector that’s small enough to fit on my desk while I write. Trichomes and crystals cover both the bud and the sugar leaves on the cannabis plant and should not be squandered!

Kief is an amazing smoke with a THC level typically between 40% to 60%. In comparison, a premium trimmed cannabis flower is at most 30% THC. But you don’t have to choose one over the other. Smoking a bowl of premium flower out of my hash pipe with a bit of kief on the top brings me immense joy.

For bigger projects, Tom’s Tumbler is the perfect kief companion. With Tom’s Tumbler you can trim wet or dry. 

Wet Trimming

So first, let’s start with the wet trim process. After removing the stems, otherwise known as bucking, fill the Tumbler barrel to 3 inches below the middle axle line, either using the either provided ½” or ¼” MeshNet, depending on your bud sizes. Place the wet buds in the tumbler, equipped with Tom’s Tumbler CO2 adaptor. While rotating at the highest speed, open the CO2 valve all the way for 6 seconds. Turn off and continue tumbling for 3 to 5 minutes. The sugar leaves flash freeze and fall through the soft MeshNet. Remove the trimmed bud from the barrel, do a little touch up on the stubborn crow’s feet, and you have a finished bud.

Kief Making

To make the kief switch to the 151 Micron pollen/kief net. Insert the trim into the barrel with a few chunks of dry ice and tumble for 20 minutes. The kief will drop down the funnel for collection. Easy right?

Dry Trimming

When you dry trim with Tom’s Tumbler, use the same kief extraction process. Dry to the point that the sugar leaves break off when you rub your finger against them.  After properly drying, tumble for 3-5 minutes, per batch. The patented technology relies on the weight of the flowers tumbling against each other to trim the sugar leaves, the size of Tumbler you purchase should be thought out before your harvest. With more than 25 years of growing experience no harvest is too large or too small for Tom. He has a continuous feed Python that can take on your largest harvest, trimming 1,200 lb. per hour or the smallest Tumbler that does 6 lb. per hour. You’ll get plenty of high-potency powdery kief which can be enjoyed as is or further transformed in an edible or pressed with heat to become a delicious hash dab.Many large medical growers use Tom’s Tumblers at their facilities. You can watch Tikun Olam demonstrate the Python, Tom’s continuous feed, 400 lb. per hour machine, trim on Grower’s Network, Canna Cribs episode.  Enjoy your new way of making kief.

Watch the Python in action here.

Curious about turning your Kief into hash? :

4-ways-to-make-hashish-at-home

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Building a Wick System: An Easy Way to Grow

This excerpt from my new book “Ask Ed: Marijuana Success” hones in on one of my favorite ways to grow cannabis at home with a wick system. 

The wick container system is an easy way to garden because it’s self-watering and removes the uncertainty of when to water. It requires far less care than hand watering, and it’s simple, fast to assemble, and inexpensive to set up. The wick system is based on capillary action. One example of this is a tissue drawing up water from a puddle. The system we set up works on the same principle. Instead of tissue, we use braided nylon rope. 

Equipment Needed to Build a Wick System 
Starting from the bottom, we need a tray that’s at least three inches deep and wide enough to support the plant container. The wider the container, the deeper the tray should be. For instance, with a 6-foot container, I use a 10-inch-deep tray, but with small containers, the tray is only 3–5 inches deep.

Next, we need some blocks to hold the container a few inches above the tray. Some possibilities are 2′ × 4′ or 4′ × 4′ boards, Styrofoam blocks, or an inverted plastic tray. The container is next. Select the same size container that you would normally use. I’ve used this system with four-inch containers and eight-foot-wide soft containers. 

Next is the wick. Nylon braided rope draws up water very well. These wicks last for a long time. I’ve used some more than 10 years. Select the wick size. The larger the container, the thicker the wick should be. A small container needs only a ¼-inch wick, while a large container, which is deeper than the small, can use wicks up to ¾ inches. Wider containers should have more wicks, so water is drawn across the entire bottom of the container by the wicks.
Next, the planting mix goes into the container. Once the water is drawn up the wick to the bottom of the soil level, the soil starts wicking it up vertically 8–10 inches. Many mixes are able to draw the moisture up, so try your favorite first. You probably have already seen the soil mix wicking when you watered a plant and excess water dripped into the tray below. A while later, the water disappeared as it was pulled up into the planting mix. The wick system works in the same way.

Installation
Place the wood or plastic supports in the tray. Measure and cut the wick. It should start at the bottom of the tray, go through the drain hole in the container and stretch across the container bottom to the drainage hole on the other side and down to the bottom of the tray. The rope tends to fray at the ends. To prevent this, before you cut, use two twist ties, one for each end of the rope, to hold it in place. If the container is wide, use two wicks, one in each set of two opposite holes. You may have to drill holes in wider containers, such as kiddie pools or wide trays. Figure that each wick drop covers about two square feet. Fill the container with a planting mix. Plant the plant or seeds.

Maintenance
To start, add water to the container until it starts to drip into the tray. Fill the tray with water. Refill the tray as it loses water. You can also water the container from the top once in a while. The planting mix absorbs water from the wick automatically as the plant uses it.

Options 
This system can be automated. By placing a reservoir above the container level and placing a flush valve in the tray, the water level can be maintained for a longer time. A number of trays can be connected to a reservoir so the whole garden is irrigated just by filling the reservoir. The advantage of this system is that each tray receives water only as it needs it. 

And there you have it- an easy, inexpensive but really effective way to set up your garden. Give it a try.
Ed Rosenthal

Father’s day is coming up June 21 

If your dad’s an OG this might be the perfect time to update his grow manual…and if he’s not, it’s still a good time to own a grow manual.
The purpose of my books has always been to show how to grow high-quality grass easily and cheaply no matter where you live.

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